Wednesday, 10/9
Permits:
- Rocky Mountain National Park – Not required for this day.
Agenda:
- Inkwell & Brew
- Trail Ridge Rd.
- Milner Pass, Poudre Lake
- Coyote Valley Trail
- Grand Lake
- East Inlet Trail
- Adams Falls
- East Meadow Sunset
- La Cucina Italiana
Morning Coffee and Breakfast at Inkwell & Brew
We started the day slowly, enjoying coffee and breakfast at Inkwell & Brew in downtown Estes Park. The coffee was strong and flavorful, giving me the energy to tackle a hike up Longs Peak (if only I were actually doing that!). The cozy upstairs seating area was a nice touch, but the breakfast sandwiches, which were pre-made and microwaved, left something to be desired. While I’d recommend this spot for coffee, you might want to find a different option if you’re looking for a full breakfast.
Driving to the West End via Trail Ridge Rd.
The drive to the west end of the park via Trail Ridge Rd. can take about an hour and a half—or closer to two hours if you plan to stop along the way. This high-altitude road is the highest continuous paved road in North America, offering breathtaking views. However, if you’re uneasy about heights, it might be a bit challenging. My wife, for example, had to close her eyes at certain points along the route.
Trail Ridge Rd. is a spectacular experience, but it’s worth noting that if it’s closed due to weather, you’d need to take a detour around the south end of the park, which adds over three hours to your trip.
Milner Pass and Poudre Lake Stop
We made one stop at Milner Pass to enjoy our packed sandwiches and stretch our legs along the banks of Poudre Lake. The stop was also a convenient restroom break—Rocky Mountain National Park does a great job providing accessible vault toilets when needed. Altitude can increase bathroom breaks, so drink plenty of water but plan accordingly!
Fire Damage and Kawuneeche Valley
As we continued west, the extent of fire damage from the 2020 East Troublesome and Cameron Peak fires became increasingly evident. The landscape is scarred but still beautiful in its resilience. The fires burned over 30,000 acres inside the park, leaving an indelible mark. While it’s sobering to see, it’s also a reminder of nature’s ability to rebuild over time.
We began our west end hike in the Kawuneeche Valley on the Coyote Valley Trail. This well-maintained, flat trail led us into a serene meadow with the Colorado River running alongside it and the mountains as a stunning backdrop. Informational signs along the trail offered insights into the park’s history and wildlife.
We had high hopes of spotting a moose, as the west end of the park is known for them. However, a park ranger informed us that during the October rut season, elk descend while moose retreat to higher elevations, making sightings less common. Despite this, the peaceful solitude of the west end was a highlight of our trip. With fewer visitors, the area exuded a calm that was a refreshing contrast to the busier east end.
Rushing to Sunset at East Meadow
After lingering too long in the Kawuneeche Valley, we rushed to Grand Lake and the East Inlet Trail to catch the sunset. Grand Lake was quiet, with many shops closed for the off-season, creating a tranquil atmosphere.
The trail to East Meadow is just over a mile, passing Adams Falls along the way. While the falls are worth a brief stop, they didn’t leave a strong impression to define as a must-see waterfall in the park.
When we arrived at East Meadow, the view was breathtaking. The trail opens up to reveal a picturesque scene with Mount Cairns, Mount Craig (Mount Baldy), and Mount Westcott framed against the meadow and the East Inlet. The compacted grass paths hinted at frequent visitors—both human and wildlife. This is a prime location for moose sightings, but unfortunately, we didn’t spot any.
I set up my camera for sunset photos and improvised a taller tripod by placing it on my backpack to elevate it over the grass. The interplay of rain clouds and sunlight created some of my favorite images of the trip. For much of our time there, we had the meadow entirely to ourselves, except for one other couple who arrived later. The solitude and beauty of this location were unmatched.
Dinner at La Cucina Italiana
As darkness fell, we returned to Grand Lake in search of dinner. To our surprise, many restaurants that claimed to be open were closed. Fortunately, La Cucina Italiana was open, and it turned out to be an excellent choice.
The restaurant was clean, inviting, and had a warm ambiance. Despite our initial concerns based on a less-than-stellar Italian dining experience earlier in the trip, La Cucina impressed us. The staff, who had recently taken over ownership, treated us with exceptional care. The highlight of the meal was the banana ice cream—a unique and delicious treat that left a lasting impression. I’d gladly return to Grand Lake just for another scoop!
Wrapping Up the Day
Our journey back to Estes Park was smooth, with the darkness helping to ease the vertigo-inducing views along Trail Ridge Rd. While we didn’t spot a moose, the day was a success and a wonderful reminder of the west end’s charm and solitude.
Next, we were set to return to the Bear Lake area for a hike to Emerald Lake on Day 6. Stay tuned for that adventure!
